Salty-Savory Cocktails: Cheers Meal! – taz.de
Fresh and sweet: this is how we know most of the trend cocktails of the last decades. Now it gets more nutritious – with pickle water and beef broth.
Aperol Spritz, Hugo and Mojito – the trend cocktails of the last decades tasted above all fresh and sweet. Now it becomes more nutritious. What we previously only knew from the plate is now going into the glass – in the spirit of the umami. Namely what umami taste can be described as manageable, rich and filling, often implemented in dishes with shiitake mushrooms, miso and soy sauce. Or, more simply: refined with a few splashes of Maggi. After all, three beers make a schnitzel, and the beef bouillon is a starter – whether with vodka or wheat semolina as an ingredient. Six drinks that open our taste buds:
White truffle martini
The classic among umami drinks is probably this one White truffle martini. If you can even speak of a “classic” for something whose eponymous ingredient is truffle. It is mixed in London, in New York – and in Berlin. At best, one chooses the Alba truffle from Piedmont, in its season between November and January. For this reason alone, this drink is definitely not one that you just mix for in between. The cocktail is a little easier to handle than the procurement of its ingredients. Because once they are worried, you only have to prepare a truffle gin: It consists of three thin slices of Alba truffles, which end up in a sous vide bath with the contents of a bottle of gin at 39 degrees for 40 minutes, i.e. in the vacuum-cooked in a water bath.
4 cl truffle gin
3 drops of avocado oil
Susanne Baró Fernández from the Timber Doodle Bar in Berlin-Friedrichshain pre-chills a martini glass with ice cubes and a dash of champagne for the drink and then brushes it with mint. Then she stirs truffle gin and vermouth on ice cubes, strains into the martini glass and sprinkles lemon zest on top. She adds a Nocellara olive and three drops of avocado oil.
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If the format of leftovers does exist, why shouldn’t leftovers exist? Even. If you’ve lived an average life, you’re sure to find some sediment in the vodka bottle at the top right of the shelf. And a good broth in the freezer – or even a fresh one on the stove. Adaptable to different diets and lifestyles, this recipe starts with a bone broth, i.e. a consommé. This can vary, because leftovers are leftovers; However, if the broth were prepared according to the drink, it would probably consist of a mixture of soup greens and beef bones, boiled down until the color is dark like a city dweller looking for an apartment. Just that it makes you happier. According to unofficial bartender survey, the ossa also the salty counterpart to the hot toddy: medicine plus drink – but including soup. It doesn’t get any more compact.
In the Parisian speakeasy bar Le Syndicat, the drink is served in a bone-like structure. The ratio of the ingredients can be regulated according to the form of the day, they are simply mixed and served with a beetroot chip. The drink in this (secret) composition was invented by Adrien Cachot, currently one of the youngest top chefs in France. He must know how to cook with cocktails.
Drinks with just a few ingredients from the leftover kitchen have superhero qualities, taste like rescue in an emergency and are always surprisingly good in their combination of the simple and the somewhat abnormal. And all without syrup, bitters and chichi. The fact that little is expected of them at first is their ace up their sleeve. Same with pickleback. There are a number of myths about the origin of this magic duo consisting of two shots. Is it the hangover-fighting vitamin C and potassium in the pickle brine? Is it the taste experience or the common borderline experience? In all three cases, the pickleback works. You start with the whiskey, followed by the cucumber water. This process is repeated any number of times.
Usually Irish whiskey or American bourbon is used for this Duo Infernale, but here too you can trust in the grandmotherly wisdom “Where the need is, foolhardiness becomes wisdom”. An upgrade is always possible, with pickled ingredients of any nature – beetroot is a grateful candidate, pearl onions rather demanding.
Naturally, soups are particularly suitable for serving a dish as a drink. Anyone strolling past café tables these days is sometimes unsure whether the thick liquid in the jar is gazpacho or bloody mary. Soup in cocktail form doesn’t have to be warm or thick, and of course it doesn’t have to be non-alcoholic either. The “Mexikaner”, for example, has established itself worldwide on a tomato basis – a, to put it bluntly, shot version of the long drink Bloody Mary. If you use clarified tomato essence instead of tomato juice, you get maximum umami. The Berlin bar Velvet presents a much more elegant and hearty variant, with ox heart tomato. Together with sake and aquavit, it becomes a kind of northeastern form of gazpacho from the German capital. More fusion is not possible.
tomato essence (the ox heart tomato)
Set: tomato and bergamot powder
Once you have made the tomato essence (a consommée, i.e. a broth) and the tomato scrub (a tomato syrup based on vinegar), it is actually quite simple: all the ingredients are stirred together with ice and strained into a coupe glass. It becomes really presentable with a garnish of tomato and bergamot powder on the rim of the glass. Tastes like a savory fizzy drink for adults in summer on the balcony.
If you can eat seasonally, you can also drink seasonally. Sure, there’s an aperitivo in the summer and mulled wine in the winter. But this can be made even more contemporary, with a focus on freshly available ingredients, such as wild garlic in spring and pumpkin in autumn. Martina Bonci is barman at Gucci Giardino 25 in Florence and has been working on this very task. To maneuver autumnal aromas into the glass, she shied away from neither pumpkin nor walnut. When the days get shorter again at some point, the body can then adjust itself Exquisite warm – a thick, leafy gold liquid of all the flavors of the season.
50ml bourbon (streaked with porcini mushrooms)
15 ml walnut liqueur
5 ml almond milk liqueur
37.5 ml pumpkin puree
30 ml lemon juice
This recipe depends on the right amount of (dried) porcini mushrooms that you like your bourbon with. It should be meaty and spicy, the pumpkin puree creamy and sweet. If you like, you can also make your own almond milk and walnut liqueur – but they are easier to buy. All ingredients are shaken and placed in a tumbler with ice cubes. The remaining whiskey mushrooms can later be processed into chips and serve as a garnish. This drink tastes like everything that children don’t like: tart, bitter, salty-vegetable. All that’s missing is the blue cheese.
Bareksten Number 5
The following cocktail is dedicated to the Norwegian spirits producer Stig Bareksten – someone who embodies pretty much every Norwegian cliché: wild nature, dark outfit, and the dark murmur of a metal guitar always in the background. In the Bergen star restaurant “Bare” they not only cook to suit the region and season, but also mix to match the food. So who could be a better match than a chef with a penchant for dishes from the fjord and a distiller who collects his gin herbs around the corner from the forest and roadside? Five drinks have been designed here using Bareksten’s spirits – which the chef serves with dishes such as crayfish. Or does he pass the lobster to the Bareksten Number 5?
30ml (Bareksten Botanical) Aquavit
60 ml Darjeeling Tea (hot)
15 ml agave syrup
5 ml rice vinegar
Garnish: lemon zest
Another aquavit will do, although Bareksten’s range is readily available in this country. The ingredients are mixed and poured into a warm glass or mug – voilà: a star cocktail, as easy as a fish sandwich. The funny thing about this drink is that it tastes even better when served with a crawfish reduction in mushrooms. It can be easily varied and goes just as well with Pu-errh tea or orange zest. The main thing is that the al dente side dish comes from the sea: Scandinavian sushi in a tea cup.