How to combine old with new

Dhe third Fashion Week of the season after New York and London has one thing in common: the weather is mostly nice. In September you can enjoy late summer in Milan, while north of the Alps it can usually get uncomfortable. After all, you can rely on it. Otherwise, there is not much else that provides stability during this time, neither the prices on the stock exchange, nor world events, nor a pandemic that has caused fashion to stand still for two years and is not yet over. The worries can be at the Milan Fashion Weekwhich has been presenting fashion for next spring and summer in almost 70 shows since Wednesday, but nobody notices.

Anke Schipp

Editor in the "Life" department of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Sunday newspaper.

A lot is the same as always. Giorgio Armani, 88 years old, tanned after the show of his second line Emporio Armani, steps onto the catwalk and has acquired the status of the Queen in Milan: he is simply (still) there. The same can be said of Miuccia Prada, 73 years old. But since she brought in Belgian designer Raf Simons, who is almost 20 years her junior, as co-creative director two and a half years ago, she has kept her collections fresh, which could be seen on Thursday at the headquarters on Via Lorenzini: a romantic one, but otherwise simple Collection held in the colors gray, white, black with few orange, yellow and red elements, "without unnecessary complexity", as Miuccia Prada announced after the show. The innovative element are clothes made of fabric based on paper.

A show like a powerhouse

Some brands are currently looking for a breath of fresh air Milan. At Etro, once a traditional family company that was recently sold to the luxury group LVMH, it is creative director Marco de Vincenzo who is expected to provide new impetus and symbolizes this with a baton that was sent as an invitation. The Italian brand Bally, whose collection can be seen for the first time on the catwalk in Milan, is also hoping for something similar with the new Malina-born designer Rhuigi Villaseñor.

Sometimes it is also a new logo that is supposed to give the kick. The Salvatore Ferragamo brand, founded by a shoemaker in Florence in the 1920s, has adopted a clean typography that is replacing cursive writing. Boss also comes up with a new logo, which is emblazoned in large white letters above the entrance to the Velodrome in Milan, where the Swabian brand is presenting its new collection. The show is a show that comes along like a powerhouse: an army of models dive down the catwalk, the techno beat is only drowned out by motorcyclists driving in circles in huge metal balls.

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